I started making it my go to sweep series as of late and it works 80% of the time. A++ Eddie
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I started making it my go to sweep series as of late and it works 80% of the time. A++ Eddie
It's a fairly easy position to get to. Especially if you have open hips. Correct me if I'm wrong but the dog fight is a 50/50 position where both grapplers are on their knees and you either have the wizzard or the underhook depending on whether you're the one who's getting up, or maintaining top control. I'm assuming you're talking about reaching over to the far side knee and driving through for the takedown to a pass.
try the limp arm to take the back. It's exactly what it sounds like. You let the hooking arm go limp and turn your shoulder to free your arm, then before your opponent can recover you take his back. Another easy yet effective move from this position.
The half and half and plan b are soo money. I've been hitting the half and half from bottom side lately, that shit is too slick.
I haven't got up to dog fight in a while, probably should do that more often.
it's been helpful when im rolling with bigger guys mostly
exactly. sometimes it's not worth the abuse your gonna take to play the lockdown game. If the guy is just too strong and you can't seem to get double underhooks, or pull him off base getting to the dog fight changes the perception really quickly. It's alot easier on the endurance, and there's alot of sneaky moves that you can pull off when big guys are just content to weigh down on you. Plan b which is like an electric chair sweep without the lockdown is a fast and effective move that tends to demoralize big guys on top, the powder keg is one I don't use often, but upon referring to the dvd, I've got in my mind as something I'm gonna go for the next time I roll.
I've been getting to dog fight from bottom side here lately, all the guys in my gym have great side control and are pretty quick to pick up on stuff so my ghost series is getting mad stuffed, been usin a type of meat hook then spinning away from him n getting up to dog fight.
Sorry to bring this thread up. I've been studying the MTS, particularly the Lockdown Flowchart. Quick question about the Dogfight. Is it truly a 50/50 position? If I have the underhook deep, keeping the wizard out, then I am in the advantage, right? Is that the ideal dogfight for me? Or does one not go to the dogfight position with the deep underhook advantage at all?
I LOVE the dogfight, ive been hitting alot of Black Mamba and going to dogfight from 1/4 guard. espically if they start to M2 Pass i catch the ankle and whip up ASAP. Also been hitting the Plan B as well, get them to post hard defending the boa sweep then boom Plan B
Correct me if I'm wrong, but typically in dogfight you have the underhook and they *might* have the whizzer (many of my gi opponents don't bother). Based on what I've learned from MtS and the books, one is well advised to test their whizzer and go one way if it's strong and the other way if it's weak.
Trying to be helpful, not speak out of turn, so if someone else can say more, please do. :)
Edit: having read what David said I think I understand your point better Aiseop. I have to think that if you've denied the opponent a whizzer that you have improved your percentages.
The term 50/50 isn't literal. If I recall correctly, the way I was taught is that a 50/50 position is a skill based position. Meaning whoever has the higher skill level will win. So for example, if I get into 5050 guard with a fresh white belt, I"ll be tapping him with ease. If I get into 5050 with Brandon McCaghren, my knee pops (true story, haha..no injury though.) So to use that point in dogfight, if your wrestling sucks, the odds are a better wrestler will beat you in that position. But, dogfight is still worth getting to because you have a ton of options besides the kneepick and all that. Those options are what will level the playing field against a strong wrestling with a good whizzer.
I wouldn't say it's a 50/50. More like a 70/30. If you're going against a strong wrestler/grappler who knows whats up, his wizzer will can potentially snap you to the mat. But if your underhook is deep and you're blocking the far knee and driving though (Bulldozer,Half and Half) or Boa-ing you're definitely at least 70/30. However that's just my interpretation and opinion. Others may disagree.
Trying to fight against the whizzer against a wrestler can be tough, but going underneath and exposing your own back (to the mat as in a pin in wrestling, not in the BJJ sense) is something wrestlers aren't as experienced in defending. That and some of the submissions such as jumping to a triangle, DPO I think it is called in the book.
Absolutely, The small amount of wrestling I do know Thanks (Josh, Javier, Matt) helps so much. For Example You may not use Spiral, DLR, Berimbolo, etc. But if you know it, you can find away to defend it because you know the paths/finish. The same goes with wrestling, you know when and where the pressure's gonna be you know where their base is, you know if they're gonna peak out, or any other common moves then you can try and stop it. Some guys are just savages and you can't do anything but get crushed down to the mat with an overhook, some guys you can catch sleeping with the Limp Arm. It's about how much time you spend in those positions.
Great points.
Wrestling (and leg locks) are two underutilized skillsets in BJJ that you can get a lot better at in a short period of time. Most people don't really work them so in just a few weeks you can get a lot better than most people you spar with or compete against.